Change to Gratitude

This was the last photo taken of me before the attack in 2016. This was at a point in time where I felt so confident with my surfing and everything was coming together. Funny how things change, I don't look at this photo and miss the surfer I was before but it's interesting to look back and appreciate how differently I value things in life today. Forever grateful to be alive and the fact I can still surf is just a bonus.

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“Just One Person”